15-05-2018: 05. Sarrance (Fr) – Jaca (Sp)
Now I can already hear you thinking: does that idiot walk about 70 km in 1 day? Yes and no, I moved my feet about 45 km in the bus and then walked 25. After advice of the people in the monastery I did not walk to the next 2 places due to the bad weather. It would continue to rain at least until Friday and even snow on the Col du Somport.
I could have opted for still 1 walking day in France, to Borce, but just like many other hikers, I decided to take the bus to Spain. For a paltry € 4.00 we drove from Sarrance to Canfranc. Beautiful mountain road where the bus regularly had to stop for trucks. Exit through the tunnel to the other side of the mountain and there at the old and very large, long-time no longer in use international train station. Shop something for lunch and then start.
At 10 am the walk continues on Spanish territory. Just outside Canfranc is the first column with the remaining number of kilometers to Santiago de Compostela: 850 km. It is still a bit wet, drizzling, a lot of wind, the poncho stays on. Regularly look back to see if the clouds are not following us. Fortunately, the thing lingers and the farther we go, the more pleasant it becomes.
The last 2 hours no more poncho on and the sun above us. I am a pilgrim and they will know. Walked all day with Valeria from South Korea and Hans Peter from Switzerland. Just lost HP in Jaca but later found him in the refugio. In a moment we will eat together and maybe tomorrow we will walk on for days. On Radio 2, Gerard Ekdom often calls out: I’ve got to have more cowbells. They have the goats here, with cow-bells,they are twice as large.
16-05-2018: 06. Jacá – Arrés
The night was long, the sleep too short. The first night in Spain was one of them: you go to sleep in a forest, but when you wake up the trees are gone. The hand saws have been exchanged for expensive motor saws without silencers. I fell asleep very late, so I didn’t hear my alarm.
So hurry up and get up and pack everything. Now I still have plenty of room, but it will not always be. So breakfast becomes the first coffee bar to go in, eat coffee and drink sandwiches and then walk. On the outskirts of Jacá I bought some supplies for when on the way nothing comes my way where there is something to eat.
Today we walk quite a few kilometers along a busy road, interspersed with a path that we can follow. Fairly downhill and sometimes uphill again. Beautiful scenery especially the Pyrenees that are covered with snow peaks in the distance.
Arrived around 12 o’clock in Santa Cilia, well in time for lunch. A baguette with choriso. Nice thick slices, a caffee con leche and a lemonade. Ready for the last session. The sting is back in the tail today, mountain path up to Arrés. A village with only a small 20 residents. The auberge is run by 2 Brazilians. The stamp is in the passport, a tour at 7 a.m. and dinner at half past 8.
17-05-2018: 07. Arrés – Fuerta
Today another decent stage for us, 28.5 km. The first night I slept reasonably well. Just after dinner, yes I know it is bad, lie down in bed. But yes, what do you want, they also eat here so late. After some talking in a small dormitory before eleven o’clock the eyes closed. I think it was 6 o’clock before I really woke up for the first time.
After breakfast and packing left around 8 am. First down again, because we finally slept on a mountain. The path to Arrés was narrow and the path this morning too. But once down we quickly walked on a gravel path again. Sometimes up and sometimes down, like every day it is beautiful.
The view is magnificent and then again the birds of prey that play with the thermics. Along the way we also see beautiful villages on hills and on 1 of them, Artieda, we have lunch: menu del dia. For me salad in advance, then pork with local vegetables and rice and for dessert a rice porridge with cinnamon. Everything for that mere € 10.00. At the checkout we were asked if we didn’t want a stamp, because that is what pilgrims want, so we brought out the passport.
Then further, it will follow an old road that is no longer in use. The larger road to the right of us is also no longer used. A new road has been laid that lies here, which nobody is driving on, in preparation for the expansion of the reservoir. But that will take a while, because the population stops it with procedures. Then follow a narrow forest path up to the ruins of Ruesta, where we spend the night. And of course eat food, drink wine.
18-05-2018: 08. Fuerta – Sangüesa
So, today there is a short stage on the program, about 23 km. So we can take it easy today. Half past eight, after breakfast, we leave. We make a short stop in a former hermit church and then on, 5 kilometers uphill. The sun is shining, wonderful and occasionally not to forget to look back. We no longer have a view of the snow-capped peaks of the Pyrenees.
We make a stop at Unduës de Larda, here I eat my first tortilla, very tasty and filling. After some more drinking again. We actually walk the whole afternoon on a mini meseta, we can already see what we can expect later on on the Camino Frances. Only much longer. And we have our first siesta. We take a seat under a lonely olive tree and take a break from it. Because of the short distance it is better to also take your rest moment. Just after 3 pm we arrive in Sangüesa for the next night. Also do some shopping and visit the village, then rest again and have dinner.
19-05-2018 09: Sangüesa – Monreal
Today another difficult stage on the program. According to the booklet, there is little to buy on the road, so ensure that there is food and drink. Fortunately, so did the shopping yesterday. The night’s sleep was short and loud. The first pilgrim got up at 5 o’clock. I got up at 6 and started the regular ritual: toilet, washing, dressing, packing, checking and having breakfast. Today but the bread bought yesterday with cheese and a cup of coffee.
Out of the door at half past seven and off. Out of town along a factory that stank and up the mountain. And the next mountain, and the next mountain. The latter was quite spicy and long. Taken above our rest moment and lunch. The other half of the bread with cheese, banana or 2 and then further. After 20 km there would be a village where there would be a bar, but today it was closed due to a local party.
So then on again, the life of a pilgrim continues. In the next town luckily a candy / drink / medicine vendormachine, taken a can there and further, another 3 km. And at the stroke of 3 we arrive again at a albergue. Nice on time. The door is open but no one present, we look for a bed and after a cold shower walk around. Drinked beer and looked where we can eat. And of course pick up the stamp and pay the overnight stay.
20-05-2018 10: Monreal – Obanos
Getting up at half past six on Sunday, that’s something, but a pilgrim just goes for it. Make something from breakfast with what’s still in my backpack. And then on, the next leg to Obanos. A distance of about 30 km with up and down hill again, along elephant paths and paved roads. Sometimes quite spicy again.
In Tiebas we take a break, our Swiss companion finds out that he has forgotten his wallet, which is still under his pillow in the inn in Monreal. So he takes a taxi back to Monreal, then back to Tiebas and then continues walking. We, Valeria and I, continue on to Obanos. Along the way we pass a special church, Santa Maria de Eunate.
So there is the first pilgrims bus. They have just had lunch there, paella, I get a stamp, take pictures and walk on. Registered again at the Auberge around half past three. Nice day again.