11-05-2018: 01. The train journeys
The first day of my Camino is the train trip to Lourdes. A trip that is already booked on January 21. It could be exciting, because at the beginning of April, the French trade unions are announcing strikes for train staff. They will follow a strike pattern for 3 months. First strike 2 days and then work 3 days. As soon as it became known just watch the strike calendar. It looked good. But you never know how it will turn out. The unions are like cats that can make strange jumps.
The day before departure no strange messages seen on the site, favorable sign. But still you don’t sleep well. I just want to make sure that everything goes well, no strikes, for anyone else, but yes. Now almost 4 months later I am writing this on the piece from Paris to Lourdes. I think it is indeed letting go and surrendering. Saint James will help you. Will this be the first time that he has accompanied me? Walking from Gare so Nord to Gare Montparnasse and on the way just visited the Tour Saint Jacques.
Arrived in Lourdes with only half an hour delay. Step 1 has been taken. It is a feeling of coming home again. I cannot describe it differently. I am now here for the 5th or 6th time and every time it seems to get stronger. Searched for the overnight place after arrival. I.p.v. the regular bed in the dormitory gives me a single room. I will not say no to that. Just inform the home front and then eat, walk around, light a candle and then walk the procession for 9 hours. A good start to our pilgrimage. Also because 13.5 km have been walked.
12-05-2018: 02. Lourdes-Asson
So, I am there, no not in Santiago, but at the destination of my first walking day, a refugio at the church of Asson. It was not so bad by this first day, the distance only deviated a good mile from what was on paper, but that is because of me. The weather was not favorable, unlike yesterday, when it was nicely sunny and warm, it was colder and much wetter.
I left Lourdes at a quarter to nine, after I first registered as a pilgrim and received my first stamp. As a precaution I put on my orange poncho in case it rains. Then I have won at least 1 fight. Turning it on and off goes with some antics but it works. Along the way I met another pilgrim early on. He was already on his way to Italy. This Croat walks back and forth and tries to provide for himself by carrying out work. But the last two days it was disappointing.
From half past ten it started to drizzle, which became more and more towards the afternoon. The walking path went from forest to street to country road etc. It was up and down hill. Quite spicy for a first day. Especially at Bétharram, where it was past the church, follow the Kruisweg up. This was the longest steep stretch today. And the rain just kept falling.
Arrived at 2.30 on my second destination, a small refugio in Asson near the church. A room with bunk beds, kitchenette, toilet and bathroom. I am the first, later came a Frenchman. We are both silent, doing our things and sometimes talk in French and English. Eat something tonight and then go to bed.
The weather forecast for tomorrow? The same as today I heard: pluie. I hope my app predicts it better, but yes, we are not in control and so we just wait. The overnight stay for tomorrow is also arranged by Frére Pierre in Arudy.
13-05-2018: 03. Asson – Arudy
This blog has disappeared for some reason. So I’m just trying to recap, or something like that … It’s a rainy day again, breakfast consists of 2 chocolate croussants. The first time that Valeria walks with me. She had lost her way yesterday and had come to Asson by bus. Together we walk the route to frére Pierre in Arudy, where Jean will also spend the night.
14-05-2018: 04. Arudy – Sarrance
My third walking day would take me to Oloron St. Marie, but yesterday while eating at Frére Pierre I was told that I can also walk directly to Sarrance. The place that I would visit after Oloron. This means that I i..p.v. 2 days each 22 km to cover, on the official pilgrim paths, I now walk on 1 day 32 km (there should be 30) and then 1 day profit. This also means walking one day less in the rain, I hope.
So this morning after breakfast and shopping for lunch, Carrefour opened at 9 am, on the road. The poncho is on again from the start, it rains lightly and the dry periods will be scarce. But that should not spoil the fun, I write. The morning part is mainly uphill on the D918, a road that winds up the side of the hill. The great thing is that behind every turn something new becomes visible: trees, shrubs, asphalt and a turn. I don’t mind, it’s new to me, not familiar territory and I like that now. At home you know what you will see, here it is a surprise.
At half past eleven lunch, where the highest point is reached. It rains a bit less but yes, you have to eat anyway. A German couple has it easier, they take the engine to let the asphalt pass by, morotists. Continue after lunch, mainly downhill. Since you pass a few houses, you walk again into the forest but still on the asphalt.
And then suddenly there is a sign with Somport. Yes, another 48 kilometers, but not today. And then we also come across the white-red pointers with GR653 and the Shell, we end up on the route again, exactly according to the description. So we leave the main road and take an even smaller road. And then the camino feeling returns. Very quiet roads, small forks and paafjes where the mud party beers and my shoes cry. Even a small unexpected water passage that with an extra stone can become a ford, thanks to a friendly Swiss. And further.
At the bridge for Sarrance the choice is to follow the path, which is not risk-free in this weather, or to walk on the busy road. So fewer risks, we still want to arrive undamaged. In Sarrance to the church we arrive next to the church at the monastery, there is still plenty of room. So a warm bed, I hope, a nice meal, I hope, and tomorrow at half past seven a breakfast. Based on a donation level.
After taking a shower, relax and recover from the day, then at half past six to the evening mass and at half past eight dinner. It was tasty, 2 kinds of soup, then red rice with green beans and goulash. And of course bread and cheese.
15-05-2018: 05. Sarrance (Fr) – Jaca (Sp)
Now I can already hear you thinking: does that idiot walk about 70 km in 1 day? Yes and no, I moved my feet about 45 km in the bus and then walked 25. After advice of the people in the monastery I did not walk to the next 2 places due to the bad weather. It would continue to rain at least until Friday and even snow on the Col du Somport.
I could have opted for still 1 walking day in France, to Borce, but just like many other hikers, I decided to take the bus to Spain. For a paltry € 4.00 we drove from Sarrance to Canfranc. Beautiful mountain road where the bus regularly had to stop for trucks. Exit through the tunnel to the other side of the mountain and there at the old and very large, long-time no longer in use international train station. Shop something for lunch and then start.
At 10 am the walk continues on Spanish territory. Just outside Canfranc is the first column with the remaining number of kilometers to Santiago de Compostela: 850 km. It is still a bit wet, drizzling, a lot of wind, the poncho stays on. Regularly look back to see if the clouds are not following us. Fortunately, the thing lingers and the farther we go, the more pleasant it becomes.
The last 2 hours no more poncho on and the sun above us. I am a pilgrim and they will know. Walked all day with Valeria from South Korea and Hans Peter from Switzerland. Just lost HP in Jaca but later found him in the refugio. In a moment we will eat together and maybe tomorrow we will walk on for days. On Radio 2, Gerard Ekdom often calls out: I’ve got to have more cowbells. They have the goats here, with cow-bells,they are twice as large.