21-05-2018
Walk 26.8 km, 5 hours 44 minutes
Ascent: 350 meters
Descend: 330 meters
Kilometers to be traveled: 682.8
Photos / Video
Another new day after a not so warm night. Unfortunately there was no blanket that I could use to get it warmer. So I woke up several times from the cold. Again a toilet visit made around 5 pm, it is slowly becoming habit. My body gets a camino rhythm, because at home this does not happen so early but much later in the day. By going so early, it also saves in weight what I have to carry …
Join a quarter to seven at breakfast. Slices of bread with marmalade or chocolate spread, coffee from a normal coffee maker, orange juice from a package, a cake and fruit. It fills and makes the start easy, no worries about when something to eat is en route. Thank the landlord and then on to the outside for another day.
Our Swiss friend is now leaving us, after having walked together for 7 days from just before Sarrance to Obanos, his trip is almost over for him. We walk on the camino Frances and today he goes against the current to Pamplona. There he will take the bus or train to Bilbao and then fly back to Geneva by plane. Jean-Pierre, his camino name, will soon be Hans-Peter again. Thank you for your pleasant and educational presence.
Around half past seven I continue my way, with Valeria, Oliver and Victor. On to Estella, the final destination for today. Some pilgrims are already on the road, those who got stuck in Obanos yesterday to escape the festive mood in Puente la Reine. This is also the first city that we pass today, in silence. The streets are deserted, only a few suppliers of food are on their way. Many a shop along the route is just opening their doors to store their goods outside.
There is already a single pilgrim who comes out of an alberge to find a cafe where he can score breakfast, with a lot of sleep in his eyes. There is a party here almost every evening, I have read before, but whether it is true? When you have walked through Puente, you will come to the famous arched bridge that you have to cross. I suspect that every passing pilgrim does take a picture here.
Everyone is walking at their own pace, which means that today I can experience the wonderful solo feeling again. I do need this, this personal feeling of pilgrimage. The real release of all things, the thoughts that go in all directions, the senses that fully enjoy everything. Taking nature in all its glory, wonderful.
It is again about paths, along farmland and vineyard, up and down the hill. There is a busy road in the distance that we will see and perhaps hear today. The next village, built against a hill, is called Ciraqui. It is time for a cup of coffee with something savory. It’s pretty busy here on the square with pilgrims who share the same idea. The club from this morning is coming together again, now Domenique is also back.
The busy road is indeed very close, my route follows it for a while and then turns off again. It continues between farmlands and vineyards. There is a sign Roman Road / Calzada Romana that points to a path. There is also a bell that you should ring for Good Vibrations. The road continues on a beautiful path through the farmlands.
In Lorca you see many signs of the camino, scallops and pilgrims. TJ even makes a friend here with a small brown bear that is standing at a water fountain from which you shouldn’t drink, which some people do… .. as long as they don’t get bothered by their belly. The gardens look colorful with flowers and cacti in bloom. And many tiles on the wall send you the right way.
After Lorca again on a hard gravel path, past many poppies and cornfields. It is a beautiful sight when you see green corn dancing in the wind, with a sun over it that sometimes turns it silvery. The road continues nicely and walking is a piece of cake.
Villatuerta is also a village on our route today, where you still have to walk uphill to get there. At the church is a source from which you can drink without the risk of walking. Time to refuel some water, because the weather is quite sweaty. It flows down nicely along my back. So ensure that you do not dry out by drinking enough.
On to the next and last city for today Estella. Along the way I encountered a few donkeys, no, not those that run on 2 feet, but of those 4-legged. Then the road goes downhill and I come across a school class, they have a hard time walking up the road without a backpack. The teacher lags behind and encourages the rebels to walk on.
Before I walk into Estella I pass a source of fresh water with the scallop and staff. It is now looking for an inn, there are quite a few in this place, you can see the names upon entering. The majority walked alone today so now also find a place to sleep for me alone. The Albergue Municipal seems the most suitable to me, so follow that sign.
Upon arrival, join the queue at the back to get a bed. It is busy and the line long, but we are patient. We get another cover for the mattress and pillow and are led further to a room on the ground floor afterwards, in a former hall. There are quite a few bunk beds, grouped per 4 and separated by walls. Most beds are full, but I can still choose, so a bed downstairs is the best option. Until now always able to sleep under if there were bunk beds. Yeah.
Perform the arrival ritual: send a message, set up the bed and rest, eat a snack and then take a shower. Estella is a nice city with quite a few historic buildings, so taking a walk is a good alternative not to stay in bed for too long, because you can never have too much exercise. The tour through the city is also good to see where I could eat later.
During the intercourse it starts to rain again, something new and for the first time in Spain. In a shop I buy some supplies and a pack of orange juice. That there are many alberges can be seen from the number of pilgrims walking around and the number of eateries. So again a stopping place on the route. Back in the alberge I meet Valeria, she also has a bed in the same alberge.
We agreed with Valeria around 7 to find a restaurant for dinner. But where are we going to do that? This afternoon she was on a square where there were several restaurants, so looking for the square. Once arrived the question is outside or inside food and which restaurant. A menu of the day is pricey everywhere, by Spanish standards, so they know how to do business here.
It is eating inside so as not to have to be in the cigarette smoke. We are immediately asked if we want to eat, then the menu and a basket with bread. Drink? Yes, just do red wine for me. What am I going to eat? It will be Lasagna Bolognese as Primero, for the Secundo Pork chop barbeque grilled and the Postre choice is Santiago tart with ice cream. Yes, luckily there was an English card present.
When the primero is delivered, 2 acquaintances arrive that we had hit in Obanos. They are 2 young women from America who are also looking for something to eat, but all tables are full. Join us, we will make room at our table. When the waiter comes he is a bit shocked, where do those 2 come from? They can also order and we continue to eat together. In the time that we still get 2 courses, their 3 courses are served.
The journey back to the alberge starts around 9 am, so that we are back well before closing time, 10.15 pm. Today I will be back in time and “enjoy” the comments of the other pilgrims around me. Observing and listening to what happens around you while walking continues in the evenings in the alberges. Here you can also make a living for all your senses. I hardly speak any Spanish, but I understand that my neighbors, a married couple my age, do not fully agree with each other about their sleeping accommodation. Pretty fun and sleep-inducing, don’t get the time to ruin you …
Accommodation: Albergue Los Amigos del Camino
