11-06-2018
Walk 33.7 km, 7 hours 14 minutes
Ascent: 150 meters
Descend: 870 meters
Kilometers to be traveled: 117.0
Another night behind us, in an alberge where there was still enough room for other pilgrims. 34 beds in the dorm remained empty, the remaining 6 were occupied. I am grateful that there were blankets that you could use, because it was necessary. This night I had to walk to the smallest room and then it felt very cold. On this day, June 11, it can be quite cold at a height of 1,200 meters.
Most of us pilgrims, 5 in total, are of the caliber to get up early and leave early. Morning in the mouth has gold in its mouth? I’m not very good with proverbs, so excuse for the uncomfortable reading. Find everything together in the hall and pack everything in the “living room” and prepare it for departure. The meteorologists have again been proved right. It looks desolate outside. Low hanging fog limits the view and when I put my hand out the door it gets wet… ..
I leave, hoping that I will get to see something of Galicia today. The unusual stopping point has the positive consequence that the route is not busy that early. In fact, nobody can be seen, at least because of the fog, as long as the road and the arrows and pillars are visible and the path is not too slippery. It goes downhill and the view of the valley is unfortunately not impressively beautiful, can only look a few tens of meters ahead. Cows in the meadow, cottages along the path.
In the first larger place that I cross, Triacastela, it is time for an extensive breakfast, in the alberge I had only taken something out of my provisions. One of today’s 2 walkers was wearing shorts and a t-shirt, carrying a normal sports bag on his shoulder. Wonder if he was a pilgrim or not. During my break I also see almost no walkers passing by. So my wish comes true, again the silence of the first days, but then completely solo.
Now that I am sitting here, in my coffee break, I wonder how many pilgrims still walk past that old oak tree in Ramil, the camino Frances, and how many do not see them, because they only depart from Sarria. The tree will undoubtedly have seen more than a hundred thousand pilgrims, all taking a picture of its existence?
I walk further and at the end of the street, which ends on a B-road, I have to make a choice which route I will follow in the direction of Sarria. The choice is huge, we will write: via Ramos or via San Xil. I choose San Xil, because it is slightly shorter than via Ramos. But now, 8 months later, when writing this report, I think I might have made the wrong choice. So I have not seen the Monasterio de Samos now. One of the oldest, if not oldest, monastery of the western world.
But it should not spoil the fun, we have, in retrospect, covered quite a few kilometers and also seen a beautiful route. Making choices is part of it. The poncho that I have on from the beginning of this day can also be turned off, because it dries up and the sun comes out so occasionally to say hello. After a descent, small hills cannot be missed, after all, it remains Galicia.
Na-na-na-na-na-na, naa-naa-naa-na-naa-naaa-na-naa-na-na-na-na-na-naa-naa-na-na… â € ¦…
This tune plays in my head. I don’t know where it comes from, or what it is. I do not listen to music via mp3 or telephone, I also hear nothing around me and yet … It seems familiar but beyond Na-naa-na-na-naa-na, naa-naa-na-naa-naa-naa-na -naa-na-na-na-na-naa-naa-na-na I don’t come. AND it keeps repeating.
Along beautiful paths, hollow roads we would call them, I also see beautiful vegetation on stones and trees. The damp climate will probably be the cause of this. It looks nice and you have something to discover. The passage of a small stream is also fun and interesting. The stone construction for dry feet at high water, for example.
Na-na-na-na-na-na, naa-naa-naa-na-naa-naaa-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na ……
Around 2 pm I approach Sarria, where I intend to spend the night, I want to experience the bustle of a “beloved” starting place. In recent years many young Spaniards have started their camino here, the first big city with more than 100 kilometers to SdC. It looks beautiful in a Spanish c.v. that Compostela from Santiago, it gives you an advantage, people think.
The crowds are starting to increase. Where do all those pilgrims come from, I am not yet in Sarria, almost. I didn’t think there were multiple camino’s through Sarria, so where did they come from? When I reach the outskirts of the city, you also see more and more billboards for overnight places in Sarria. And soon a sense of disaster begins to run through my body.
Na-na-na-na-na-na, naa-naa-naa-na-naa-naaa-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na ……
The alberges that I pass have signs hanging at the door that translate freely: meaning FULL. Now I suddenly walk in a group, where do they come from? It seems as if buses stop outside Sarria and then hordes of pilgrims are released. It is raining again a bit, but just not hard enough to put on the poncho. But when will there be an alberge that is not full? I persist and ask Jacobus if he still knows a place.
So, relying on Saint Jacques, I keep walking on, from the newer part of Sarria to the old part. Cross a river via the bridge, then cross the main road, still following the arrows. Then there must be climbed, stairs. And after 50 meters behind the stairs a sign from an alberge, such a chalk board with the announcement that there is still room. No public, but a private alberge, which is better than no alberge.
So just down the street and in at the alberge. It is a large house where there is a kind of reception in the hall. I receive a very warm welcome and yes there is still room. The beds in the upstairs dormitories are full, but there is still 1 room with 2 bunk beds downstairs. First I can take a look to decide if I want to sleep there. I don’t actually have to see it first, I just want a place for the night, also unseen. But after seeing the room, I say YES with even more conviction. It is a spacious room with indeed 2 bunk beds. For each bed there is a lockable cupboard and every guest receives a large and small towel. The bathroom is also pico bello in order, only available for the people from this room.
When I register I am told that maybe 3 more pilgrims will come and that they will then occupy the other 3 beds, No Problemo. Afterwards I can now write that I was the only guest in this room. The shower is wonderful, the bed is wonderful …. The pain in my legs a little less wonderful … But what do you want, today much downhill so stressful for the legs.
It is time to go for a detour, unfortunately in the rain. See where I can eat, an early dinner for example. The city is lively, despite the bad weather there is quite a bit on the road. After an hour of strolling we found a restaurant where there are enough people present and eating. So also go inside and see if there is still a table available for 1 person. Once seated at a table I see the 2 boys and their mother (from America) that I also saw in Foncebadon. Those who walk only a few pieces and travel the rest by transport.
Walked a bit after dinner. At the alberge there is also a church, where I attend the evening mass for pilgrims. Then back to my place to sleep. My laundry will be dry by now, or was this ready before I went to eat? I no longer know how that happened then. Doesn’t matter that much, which does matter is that I have wonderfully fresh clothing at my disposal again for the coming days. In the alberge I drink another cup of coffee, have a chat with 2 other pilgrims and go to bed on time. I don’t want to start too late tomorrow, because I think there may be traffic problems.
Accommodation: Albergue Mayor
