16-05-2018
Walked 28.2 km, 8 hours 5 minutes
Ascent: 190
Decrease: 310
Kilometers to be traveled: 815.4
Photos / Video
In such a large room where many pilgrims reside, you can also experience a lot of pilgrims. No they are not partying youngsters who made sure that the night was very short. It was the Pelegrino logging club that sawed down the trees that were not there many times. Few hours really slept, because the wall between my bed and that bed next to me was not snipe-proof. And there was someone else who did not leave the chainsaw at home.
I did not hear the alarm clock that I had set on my watch, so when I woke up there was already plenty of activity in the room. In the bathroom it was a coming and going of tooth brushes, face washers and toilet users. It goes on nicely and quietly one after the other, nobody sputtering or complaining. Then find my things back together and put them away in the backpack, remove the cover from the mattress and pillow and throw it away and then down.
Jean-Pierre and Valeria are ready for a new walking day when I arrive below. JP is still looking for something and when he is ready, we can leave. Our alberge is not directly on the route, but as soon as you leave the door you are quickly led back to the route with the yellow arrows. Now to score a breakfast, so a stop at the first bar that also has croissants and such and stop a cafà © con leche with croissants and orange juice.
Now the day is just starting, putting one foot in front of the other, and repeating that until we find another bed for the night. We must not forget to buy something to eat on the way, because will we arrive in a place where there is something to eat by noon? At a gas station on the route we stock up and then continue. It takes a while before we leave the city. I don’t mind walking through the city, it’s clean and not an industry.
Our route largely follows a busy road, where we continue to follow via a path. Not really parallel to it, just enough to still forget that there is a road. For the most part it is still going downhill, with the occasional increase. We also keep a view of the mountains of the Pyrenees, the snowy peaks are clearly visible against the blue sky. After 3 rainy days in France and 1 uplifting day in Spain, the spring seems to have really begun. The sun is shining, the temperature is just right and the road and surroundings are beautiful.
When we reach Santa Cilia around noon, that place seems like a perfect opportunity to have lunch there. We still see some pilgrims who left Jaca this morning. We are looking forward to a bar where we can eat something. A bocadillo with thick slices of choriso, another café con leche, grande nu, and a lemonade for me. M.a.w. a baguette with meat and a lemonade. We walk a little through the village, sight-seeing, and then pick up the yellow thread of our camino again.
Our goal is Arrés, this is a village on a hill, away from the busy road. So at some point we leave the busy road and lead us the path to an elephant trail that slowly goes up. It is very narrow and sometimes you have to pay attention to your balance when making your steps. It does not go down steeply next to the path, but you could still make a big tumble, so pay attention. Fortunately, the walking stick is very useful in maintaining balance.
It is impressive and fascinating at the same time, the path that crawls up the hill. How long do we have to keep walking here and will it be in Arrés? It just winds and winds until something of a house becomes visible. And if you then continue on that bend, Arrà © s comes into the picture. It is a “cute” village. On to the alberge, although it is not far away. You just walk into the village or you already see the alberge, not that those backpacks betray something outside.
Register immediately upon arrival because this alberge is the only alberge in the village with a limited number of beds. We report to 1 of the 2 Brazilian hospitalos. We are welcomed with a glass of lemon lemonade. We register and get our stamp in the passport. It is also a donativo where dinner and breakfast are actually included. After all, there is not much to be experienced in this village. Go down the stairs and find a bed in the left room, the right room is already full.
Fortunately there is still plenty of choice between all bunk beds where the space between the beds is limited. I choose a bed underneath, nice and easy. Now first a message home, furnishing the bed and taking a break. Then it’s time for the shower and laundry. Now there is still some sunshine and the laundry can dry. I take some snacking because it takes a while before we eat. Taking a walk through the village leads me to the only cafe in the village.
I grab a beer and sit outside. There are several pilgrims with the same thoughts, everyone is busy writing his experiences of the day or have a chat. Here I come in contact with 2 Fransozen (Olivier and Domenique) and a Spaniard (Victor), they have been meeting each other on the route for several days. Domenique started in his hometown near Arles and crossed the Somport on foot. It was very cold and white upstairs, he hadn’t wanted to miss it for the world, but the downwards made sure that he had 2 large open wounds on his heels.
The view from Arrés is equally beautiful on all sides, especially due to the beautiful weather that creates a beautiful glow on the surroundings. We have to report to the inn at 7 o’clock so we have time to lie down. In the bed next to me, Domenique is taking care of his wounds, that looks very bad. He will make a stop at a pharmacy tomorrow and ask for advice on what to do. Around 7 o’clock I go to the entrance of the inn, where almost half of all pilgrims come together.
We get a tour of the church, it is a special church with some old ones … We take some pictures and pray the pilgrim prayer together. Now we go to the tower of Arrés that used to be used to keep an eye on the lands. The view is even more beautiful and especially wider. I am surprised that I am not tired or in pain of today’s effort, not even with the stairs that we go up and down here. After the viewing we go back to the alberge and see that the tables are set. We can take a seat.
The other pilgrims also sit down and when every place is occupied the food is served. They have made a delicious salad, the wine is of course also not lacking at the table. We cannot start eating, because they first have to perform the pilgrim rap. The rhythm is We Will Rock You, so we have to indicate the rhythm by tapping the table and they bring out their text. Then the tasty food is all. After the salad comes a tasty pasta, vegetarian. Lastly fruit and cheese. Quite a lot is discussed and made acquainted, there is a chance that you will meet on the route.
Everyone brings their dirty dishes to the kitchen and wash it, many hands make light work. It is already dark outside and an unwritten law is that pilgrims lie in bed at 10 o’clock and the lights go out. So we are all back on time again. Fortunately there is a blanket on my bed, so I don’t have to suffer cold this night, because it is getting quite cool here.
See you tomorrow.
Accommodation: Alberge Arres
